Simone Rocha Brings Tender Menswear To Pitti Uomo
Dig out Irish designer Simone Rocha and her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented via Pitti Uomo with a fully dedicated menswear catwalk moment.
After seasons of weaving menswear into her larger universe alongside women’s collections, Rocha stepped into Florence with a focused men’s proposal that still carried her unmistakable signature: romance with a bruise, softness with structure, and delicacy sharpened just enough to cut.
Lace, tailoring, bloomers, florals and theatrical menswear tension meet inside the designer’s Spring/Summer 2027 Pitti Uomo moment.
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Shown as part of Pitti Uomo 110, the collection marked a major menswear turn for Rocha. GQ noted that the presentation unfolded at Florence’s Teatro Della Pergola with 38 looks, using the stage to build character-driven menswear that felt romantic, grounded and slightly haunted.
The Rocha codes were all there: tender masculinity, exposed underlayers, lace against tailoring, soft volume, bloomers, ruffles, flats, florals and that sense of clothing caught between innocence and rebellion. It is menswear, yes, but menswear through a Simone Rocha lens, where prettiness is never just pretty.
Wallpaper described the show as Rocha’s first standalone menswear presentation and pointed to her interest in the more tender aspects of masculinity. That idea runs through these looks like a thread: not fragile, not costume, but emotionally detailed and beautifully unsettled.
What makes the collection hit is the tension. A jacket can feel classic until a sheer layer or a bloomered shape pushes it sideways. A romantic detail can turn strange when paired with grounded footwear or a sharper silhouette. Rocha lets the boys be soft, odd, elegant and a little dangerous.
Inside Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection.
A closer look at the Pitti Uomo runway moment, where lace, tailoring, florals, exposed layers and theatrical menswear emotion moved through Rocha’s unmistakable world.
Update note: This INYIM post has been updated for formatting, readability, captions, source credit and gallery presentation. Sources: FY Magazine provided the runway/source image context; Simone Rocha’s official website provided the official brand link; GQ and Wallpaper provided additional show context.
