Genderless Seduction Meets Crystals, Leather And Barely-There Ease
Ludovic de Saint Sernin returned for Spring/Summer 2023 with a collection that treated sensuality less like decoration and more like a complete design language. Skin, shine, transparency and precise body-conscious cuts moved across the runway without being restricted to one gender, one silhouette or one idea of who gets to be looked at.
Presented in Paris in September 2022, the collection extended the designer’s signature erotic minimalism while opening it up with more everyday ease. Barely-there halters, lace, leather, crystalline surfaces and sharply fitted trousers shared space with simpler pieces that could leave the runway without losing their charge.
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One of the collection’s clearest developments was its balance between exposure and wearability. De Saint Sernin’s work had already built a cult following around lace-up briefs, gleaming hardware and clothes that make the body part of the construction. Here, that vocabulary expanded into a fuller wardrobe without surrendering the heat.
The tension is what makes the clothes work: fragile crystal against hard leather, soft draping beside exact tailoring, and slivers of fabric styled with the confidence of a full evening look. Even the more familiar pieces carry a slightly dangerous polish, as though getting dressed and undressed have become the same gesture.
The season also introduced the Cleavage bag, named for the curved exterior pockets that shape its body. It fit naturally into a collection already concerned with contours, framing and the suggestion of what sits just beneath the surface.
Japanese-sourced fabrics and painstaking Swarovski crystal work brought craft into focus beneath the provocation. The result was not simply shock dressing. It was a collection about control—how much to reveal, where to place the eye and how to make a minimal garment feel as deliberate as couture.
INYIM’s selected runway looks capture that push and pull beautifully: stripped-back but never plain, intimate without becoming fragile, and built for anyone willing to wear desire as confidently as tailoring.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring/Summer 2023 Selected Looks
Eight additional looks trace the collection’s movement through transparency, leather, crystalline shine and precise body-conscious construction.
Selected looks from Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring/Summer 2023. Images via Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
Source: Ludovic de Saint Sernin official collection archive and Vogue Runway. This October 2022 INYIM fashion post was restored and reformatted for archive clarity.
