Allow Me to Introduce You Kiddas to Orschel-Read’s Exuberant AW10
I am still rolling in excitement over these exuberant pieces, captivated with such pizazz and detail. Orschel-Read’s AW10 collection had plenty to say before you even got close enough to discover what was hiding underneath.
The collection, titled Fågeln, was presented at Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week in February 2010. Designer Stefán Orschel-Read drew from the subtle beauty of female birds, the early work of English textile designer William Morris and the ceiling murals of Stockholm’s Storkyrkan Cathedral.
That mix produced the veritable fashion feast we were responding to in the first place: soft-hued prints colliding with more robust tailoring, earthy tweeds sitting alongside digitally printed leather, knit and fine tailoring wool, and a silhouette that could move between disciplined menswear and a classic sportswear ease.
fashion
Orschel-Read — Fågeln AW10/11
Stefán Orschel-Read’s Fågeln collection balances sharp tailoring with softer prints, earthy tweeds, leather, knit and carefully hidden detail.
Some links may be affiliate links. INYIM may earn from qualifying purchases.
You’ll find down below a few questions and answers from Orschel-Read that I find completely satisfying — especially because they explain why all that decorative detail never feels separate from the tailoring.
Masculine Tailoring Meets the Softer Side of Fågeln
This collection mixes militaristic tailoring with feminine hues and prints. Would you consider this fusion of the masculine and feminine key to the collection?
A certain balance between masculine and feminine is something that underpins much of the Orschel-Read brand, not only the AW10 collection. The designer connected that thinking to Virginia Woolf’s 1928 novel Orlando: there are differences between men and women, but many more similarities.
The Best Details Were Designed to Stay Hidden
Any interesting stories or anecdotes regarding the production of the collection?
One of the themes was “hidden detail.” As the collection developed, those details became more concealed: embroidered under-collars, pockets hidden inside other pockets and hand-stitched work that could not be fully seen without taking the garments apart.
Meet the Orschel-Read Man
Describe the Orschel-Read man.
The Orschel-Read man has “impeccable taste” and is highly aware of his personality and how he expresses himself through appearance. He is a true gentleman with what the designer called a certain “shy sexiness,” plus a keen eye for detail and quality.
That description fits Fågeln rather perfectly. This is menswear that enjoys refinement without becoming restrained by it — tailored, decorative and willing to let masculinity share space with softness, print and a little theatrical flourish.
The full set below captures exactly why the collection had us rolling in excitement: structure and softness, hidden craft and visible pizazz, all living in the same wardrobe.
Sources: NOT JUST A LABEL; Amelia’s Magazine. This archived INYIM post was restored and lightly reformatted for readability while preserving its original-era framing.
