Berluti Gives Fall 2013 a Sharp, Luxurious Family Tree
Berluti presents its Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection with a lookbook of beautiful portraits, bringing the house’s expanding menswear world into sharp focus under artistic director Alessandro Sartori.
The collection lands as Berluti continues pushing beyond its famous shoes and into a fuller vision of men’s style. Sartori keeps the house’s leather heritage close, but the clothes make it clear that tailoring, outerwear and eveningwear are now very much part of the conversation.
For Fall 2013, that conversation takes over Paris’ Grande Galerie de l’Évolution at the Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle. The museum setting inspires Sartori to think about genealogy — what tailoring keeps, what it loses and how classic menswear can keep evolving without losing the craft underneath it.
Discover More
Berluti Fall/Winter 2013-14
Alessandro Sartori expands Berluti’s menswear language through sharp tailoring, richly treated outerwear and the house’s signature devotion to leather craftsmanship.
Some links may be affiliate links. INYIM may earn from qualifying purchases.
Tailoring Gets the Berluti Treatment
The suits are built with the kind of precise angles Sartori favors: three-piece tailoring, sharply drawn lapels and a newly defined Neapolitan shoulder. Even when the silhouettes stay classic, the proportions and finishing keep them from feeling like somebody simply raided an old gentleman’s closet.
That old-world elegance is exactly what makes the collection work. Berluti is not chasing novelty for novelty’s sake. Instead, familiar menswear pieces are made more luxurious, more tactile and, in some cases, just a little more severe.
Leather Moves Beyond the Shoes
Berluti’s leather know-how travels directly into the clothing. Sartori brings the house’s complex patina techniques into outerwear, including a double-breasted trench treated with multiple layers of wax, while Japanese cotton, mink, cashmere and quilted leather push the wardrobe further into full-on artisanal luxury.
It is an ambitious move for a house still best known first for what goes on your feet. But that is also the fun of watching Berluti right now: the shoes remain the foundation, while the rest of the wardrobe keeps getting bigger around them.
A Strong Cast for a Bigger Menswear Story
The portrait lineup includes Aiden Andrews, Alexander Beck, Benoni Loos, Isaac Carew, John Todd, Karl Morrall, Linus Gustin, Luka Badnjar, Norman Theuerkorn, Otto Pierce and Vinnie Woolston, giving the collection a proper cross-section of the season’s model boys.
Against the restrained portrait setup, the clothes get to do the talking: strong coats, sharp suiting, rich surfaces and the kind of polished styling that makes Berluti’s move into complete menswear feel less like an experiment and more like a plan.
Dig out the Berluti Fall/Winter 2013-14 portraits below — a very handsome case for Sartori’s growing vision of the house.
Source: Berluti. Images: Berluti. This archived INYIM post was restored and lightly reformatted for readability while preserving its original-era framing.
