UNDERCOVER turns the volume down just enough for Pre‑Fall 2026, but the attitude is still loud and clear. The menswear collection arrives as a study in restraint with a pulse—rooted in classical wardrobe staples, but twisted with the brand’s signature subversive edge. Ever loyal to its “We Make Noise Not Clothes” ethos, the label uses this in‑between season to translate its ideology into pieces that feel more approachable, without losing the tension between rebellion and refinement.
Silhouettes lean into contemporary interpretations of basics: tailored coats, precise blazers, and clean trousers that feel familiar at first glance, then reveal quiet disruptions up close. Jun Takahashi frames the collection as “contemporary interpretations of classical basic items,” and it shows in the way traditional menswear codes are reworked with subtle asymmetry, unexpected fabric pairings, and off‑kilter proportions. The result is a wardrobe that feels lived‑in, intelligent, and quietly radical.
Color and texture stay measured but intentional. Neutrals and deep tones dominate, allowing the construction and detailing to do the talking. Minimalist outerwear is cut with architectural clarity, while knitwear and shirting introduce softness without sacrificing structure. The overall effect is a refined minimalism that still carries the brand’s avant‑garde DNA—less shouty, more whispered provocation.
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Trousers and tailoring keep things grounded: straight and slightly relaxed cuts, clean breaks, and fabrics that move with the body. This is luxury wardrobe essentials territory—pieces that can slip into a real closet without feeling costume‑y, yet still signal a discerning eye. Underneath the calm surface, there’s that familiar UNDERCOVER friction: a graphic here, a seam there, a proportion that feels just a bit off in the best way.
What makes this Pre‑Fall outing hit is its confidence in subtlety. Rather than staging a spectacle, UNDERCOVER builds a quiet revolution of everyday pieces that reward repeat wear and close inspection. It’s menswear for someone who wants their clothes to think as much as they look good—modern, composed, and unmistakably Takahashi.
CREDITS
Designer: Jun Takahashi / UNDERCOVER Season: Pre‑Fall 2026 Menswear Photography: Courtesy of UNDERCOVER Styling: UNDERCOVER Studio
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