Glenn Martens Takes One Last Ride With Diesel in Milan
Diesel unveiled Spring Summer 2027 in Milan as the final collection of creative director Glenn Martens’ six-year run at the house. And if there was ever a Diesel way to leave, this was it: denim torn apart and rebuilt, bodies revealed through orchid-shaped cutaways, clothes twisted into each other, and a show built less like a runway than one last night out.
“The party always comes first at Diesel. It’s about inclusivity, self-expression, pleasure and the democracy of experience. The collection is the essence of Diesel: disruptive, sexy, fluid, fun. We are all in this together: let’s take a ride one more time,” Martens said.
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One More Ride With Glenn Martens
Diesel closes Glenn Martens’ six-year chapter with a Spring Summer 2027 collection built from denim distortion, hybrid dressing, club energy and one final Milan blowout.
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The Clothes Looked Like the Morning After — on Purpose
Martens pushed several of his most familiar Diesel codes into one last collision. Coated and laser-treated denim was made to resemble leather, garments appeared fused together, and orchid-shaped openings cut through knits, polos and layered constructions. Even the idea of where one garment ends and another begins got scrambled into leather and denim pantasocks.
Diesel described the collection as if everybody had dressed too quickly after an intense night. That slightly wrecked, slightly irresistible tension has been one of Martens’ signatures at the brand: polished enough to be fashion, messed up enough to still feel like Diesel.
Then 200 Performers Turned the Audience Into the Show
The spectacle did not stop at the runway. Marseille artist collective (LA)HORDE staged a series of interventions inside the purpose-built club space, with 200 performers embedded throughout the audience. As the collection moved, so did the room — sometimes strange, sometimes confrontational, sometimes openly sensual.
That was classic Martens-era Diesel: the clothes mattered, but so did the experience around them. The show had to feel democratic, chaotic and a little unpredictable rather than sealed off behind the usual fashion-week velvet rope.
Six Years Later, Martens Leaves Diesel Looking Like Diesel Again
Martens joined Diesel in 2020 and spent the next six years rebuilding the brand’s fashion credibility without scrubbing away its trashy-sexy humor. Under him, denim became laboratory material, runway shows became public spectacles and the house learned how to make Y2K nostalgia feel less like a rerun and more like fuel.
Backstage before the show, Martens praised the team he leaves behind and said Diesel now has “a great platform” for its next chapter. His own next chapter is already underway: he will now focus fully on Maison Margiela.
For Diesel, though, Spring Summer 2027 reads exactly like the farewell Martens promised: disruptive, sexy, fluid, fun — and determined to squeeze in one more party before the lights come up.
Source: Diesel; Vogue Runway; Male Model Scene. Original INYIM post expanded with verified Spring Summer 2027 runway context.
