“As a whole, International Herald Tribune fashion editor Suzy Menkes’ latest piece–on why Milan Fashion Week is often overlooked by the fashion industry–really struck me. “Italy—like any other host country—deserves more from the fashion world than a cursory glance at the shows. The audience needs time to savor the city,” says Menkes, referring to the fact that unlike New York or Paris’ shows, which go on for a week and a half, Milan’s run is just five days.
Part of the reason this piece hit a nerve: On the plane ride over here, I read the first half of John Fairchild’s Chic Savages–a memoir of the WWD publisher’s life working at the newspaper. It was originally published in 1989. While the brunt of the book focuses on how society gossip played a major role in the development of both the trade rag and its companion magazine W, he also happens to talk quite a bit about Milan in the late ’80s. In Fairchild’s world, Milan is the new Paris. The fabrics are best, the craftsmanship is best and many of the designers are best.
Much of this is still true–my Chanel bag, for example, was not made in France, but Italy–and much is not. Today, fewer people show up for Milan’s shows. I’m curious as to why, since Milan arguably has the strongest mix of commercial and editorial fashion. Of the three shows I took in today–D&G, Prada, and Versace’s dress rehearsal–each boasted several incredibly memorable looks that I’m sure will grace the pages of Vogue, V and everywhere in between this autumn. Yet they were all wearable, too. You can’t really say that about most of the ultra-directional looks walking through the other three cities.
Fresh music, bold entertainment, and men’s fashion—one tight email a week.
Menkes modernized Fairchild’s thesis for the piece, talking about Milan’s cultural significance and why it was important for the editors and buyers who take in the shows to also take in the food, architecture and history.”
