"Eric Schieler recently graduated at the MA course of Central Saint Martins in London. His collection titled “SPANNUNG” explored the concepts of Masculinity, Vulnerability, and Protection.
“In reflection of my personal experiences of Berlin’s subculture and nightlife, I wanted to create a collection, showing my point of view as a young gay man today” – said Eric. “In my research, I am referencing artist like Robert Mapplethorpe, or Prem Sahib, whose works were most relevant for gay culture in the early 70s and today. Also, Hal Fischer’s Gay semiotics, that shows the codes of dressing in queer culture was very relevant to my design process. Recently I have been to an exhibition in KW Berlin to see David Wojnarowicz, whose work was also very inspirational to me.
He created a lot of very personal artwork reflecting his role as a gay man in society, especially in his final days before passing away too early of Aids, his work got very dark and expresses his pain with the world. Simultaneously my collection was supposed to reflect this darkness in the severeness of the cut of the tailoring, the materials, prints, and styling. I intended to create a masculine, sexy, shape for the suit, but also the rest of the garments are rather tailored and fitted.
I am contrasting wool with latex, nylon, and satin and using couture techniques that are infused with sportswear finishings. In order to create a collection of actually wearable and desirable pieces, that nonetheless feel subversive and relevant for today.”
Models: Alexander MacKinnon @alexandersnout, Isaac Healy @ichealy
Design: Eric Schieler @blauaaron
Creative Direction: Eric Schieler @blauaaron
Photography: Stini Roehrs @stiniroehrs" - Fuckingyoung.es
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